The Zoning Board of Adjustment has changed its mind and given the go ahead for a Subway restaurant to be located in a vacant storefront at 4533 Baltimore Ave.

The Board voted on Feb. 1 to approve the Subway, reversing a decision it made last month to deny the application because of concerns of nearby neighbors about additional traffic in the alley behind the proposed location.

The Board’s decision followed a “plea for reconsideration” from the Spruce Hill Community Association and the Subway franchisee’s attorney. In a letter to the Board dated mid January, Barry Grossbach, who heads a committee that considers zoning issues for the SHCA, wrote that the Subway would provide a stable tenant for the storefront property and that the Association was “at a loss” about the previous decision to deny Subway a take-out certificate that would enable it to open.

The Subway would be the first chain restaurant on that section of Baltimore Avenue, where many businesses are locally owned.

“‘Mom and Pop’ businesses are often operating at the margins and while they remain the central and cherished fabric of our neighborhood commerce, we are always fearful that what is here today might be gone tomorrow,” Grossbach wrote. “Subway … promised a degree of stability that any corridor would welcome.”

More than a dozen nearby residents wrote letters to the Board to voice their opposition to the Subway, including state Rep. James Roebuck, who lives on 46th Street.

“I live a block from this location and I too share these concerns about the impact a Subway would have on my community,” he wrote.

Appeals of the decision can be filed until March 2.

Those who fondly remember the original West Philly Vietnam space at 814 S. 47th Street will be happy to hear that the Grill Fish Cafe (Facebook page), the third restaurant operated by Benny Lai and his family, is finally open. In contrast to its gregarious older sibling, Grill Fish offers an intimate setting and a more narrowly focused bill of fare. Being familiar with Vietnam, we expected a good meal. We were pleased to find the service attentive, the flavors bright, and the portions more than generous. Most importantly, without exception, the seafood was perfectly cooked. Someone took great care to do that fish justice; it started out fresh but the chef made it better. The Lai family definitely knows what they are doing, and the smaller size of the Grill Fish Cafe is a showcase for artisanal quality dishes inspired by traditional Vietnamese flavors and techniques.

We started with crispy shrimp ($12). Thirteen juicy shrimp lightly crusted and flash-fried with bits of bell pepper were served with an intense garlic-lime dipping sauce. The octopus ($12), sliced and tossed in a basil vinaigrette with slivered red onions, was exquisitely cooked – toothsome and silky, without a hint of the toughness you find when octopus is clumsily prepared. This is the octopus you need to order for that friend who thinks she doesn’t like it.

Next up: grilled salmon with a dark soy glaze and sautéed spinach ($16). According to my partner, who is a fish snob but not a word snob, the salmon “melts in your mouth.” I don’t know whether to credit the quality of the filet or the touch of the chef, but Matt was right: it was moist, tender all through, and suffused in flavor. The sauce was assertive, but the salmon stood its ground. Lastly, we ordered the whole grilled bronzino in a light clear lemon sauce (market price). Our server offered to fillet it for us at the table, to spare us the bones, but we declined and dug right in.

The subtle lemon enhanced the delicate taste of fresh (but not fishy) fish. With white rice and a side of bok choy ($3), we finished our meal all jacked up on protein and feeling totally satisfied. The cake selection (lemon, chocolate, and carrot) looked tempting, but we decided to save it for another day.

We were the only patrons on a Wednesday at six o’clock –we worried about the business, but we felt lucky to have enjoyed the full attention of the kitchen and staff. Grill Fish has been open less than a week; you’ll want to try it before the crowds start lining up. It’s a small place with a full bar featuring Vietnam’s specialty drinks, such as the delicious lemongrass martini ($9).

In addition to fish, mussels, and calamari, the menu offers lamb, chicken, and seasonal grilled vegetables. We’ll see if the Grill Fish Cafe becomes a destination for folks from all over town. For now, I’m psyched to know that true seafood experts are doing their thing just blocks from my house.

– Jen

It looks like the Penn-owned space at 40th & Walnut left vacant after Marathon Grill and MarBar closed last May won’t stay empty for too long. Harvest Seasonal Grill & Wine Bar is set to open its doors at this location in June 2012, as The Daily Pennsylvanian reports.

This will be the second location for Harvest. The first original is in Glen Mills.

The restaurant offers a farm-fresh menu with the ingredients coming from over 75 local and sustainable farms. The menu will change according to the seasons. The restaurant will have an “upscale-casual” atmosphere  with a wine bar on the second level. It sounds like it will serve a similar clientele as its predecessor. Has anyone been to the original Harvest Seasonal in Glen Mills?

It was a familiar scene to many in West Philly. “Honest” Tom McCusker behind the counter asking for names and taking orders. But this time he was at eye level – not in his famous truck, but at his new shop at 261 S. 44th (between Spruce and Locust).

Honest Tom’s Taco Shop (Facebook link) opened for business this morning and with any luck, McCusker said, they will be open until 9 p.m. or so tonight. Honest Tom’s will be open seven days a week 8 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Like the truck, the shop is cash only.

Come back in a few days for a review, but we pretty much know how this one will turn out.

We got a word from the Roost owners and now can confirm the rumors that have been swirling around for a few days that the take out/delivery chicken and biscuit shop at 45th and Springfield has closed – for now. According to Annie Baum-Stein, who along with her partner also owns Milk & Honey Market, the shop closed for some housekeeping on Monday, Dec. 12. They are working on its re-opening in early 2012 but it may be at a different location, hopefully with seating and curb appeal.

The Roost location at 4529 Springfield will continue to function as Milk & Honey’s kitchen and offices. Milk & Honey will be going strong. If you are dying for a biscuit that you were able to get with your Roost chicken order, they are available with orders of soup at Milk & Honey while supplies last. Also, look for Milk & Honey Catering in early 2012.

This holiday season Milk & Honey is offering a lot of nice gifts, including Urban Apiaries gift boxes. For more information visit our Buy Local for the Holidays page.

At long last, Guacamole Mex-Grill (Facebook page) has opened its brightly painted storefront at 4612 Woodland Avenue. Judging by yesterday’s noontime crowd, the eat-in/take-out taqueria has already become a popular choice for folks who live and work in the area around the University of the Sciences of Philadelphia. Guacamole is owned and operated by the de Luna family, whose food expertise stems from their grandmother’s mole (pronounced MO-lay) business in Mexico. As a mole aficionado, I’d been looking forward to trying it. The quality food, quick service, and colorful setting will no doubt draw a dedicated following.

In casual style, you order at the register — the food arrives quickly and packaged to go. With only 15-18 seats in the dining room, there is not a lot of room to sit, so if it’s peak lunch or dinner, don’t rule out take-out. Tacos, tortas, tostadas, and gorditas come with one of four basic fillings, priced from $5.50 to around $7.50. We ordered carne asada tostadas ($6.50 for two) and gorditas al pastor ($6.50). The grilled beef carne asada was flavorful, but the al pastor — marinated, grilled pork chopped with pineapple and chiles — was a revelation. It was seriously delicious, and next time I’ll order torta al pastor: mexican pork sandwich on a Portuguese roll. The mole poblano on the chicken enchiladas ($8.50, platter with rice, beans and salad) was rich, dark, and deeply flavored. Enchiladas also come with red or green sauce, and all the variations on the taco/tostada theme are available with grilled vegetables. The chips ($.75) are real, deep fried, crunchy/salty tortilla chips, and the guacamole ($2.50) is about as good as the packaged kind from Trader Joe’s. If it’s your favorite topping, order it, but don’t come to Guacamole specifically for the Guac. Come for the mole.

Guacamole Mex-Grill features rich flavors but not intense spice. Order extra salsa if you need more heat. You can choose from a range of sodas, juices, or bottled water, but plain tap water is not served. The Mex-Grill is primarily a take-out joint, with a straightforward and familiar menu. Though some of us like to go BYO, Guacamole is not that kind of place. After less than a week in operation, the menu will continue to adapt to the tastes of the neighborhood, and is subject to change. For the time being, it’s great to have a locally owned, small scale alternative to the “mexican” chain restaurants.

– Jen