Those who fondly remember the original West Philly Vietnam space at 814 S. 47th Street will be happy to hear that the Grill Fish Cafe (Facebook page), the third restaurant operated by Benny Lai and his family, is finally open. In contrast to its gregarious older sibling, Grill Fish offers an intimate setting and a more narrowly focused bill of fare. Being familiar with Vietnam, we expected a good meal. We were pleased to find the service attentive, the flavors bright, and the portions more than generous. Most importantly, without exception, the seafood was perfectly cooked. Someone took great care to do that fish justice; it started out fresh but the chef made it better. The Lai family definitely knows what they are doing, and the smaller size of the Grill Fish Cafe is a showcase for artisanal quality dishes inspired by traditional Vietnamese flavors and techniques.

We started with crispy shrimp ($12). Thirteen juicy shrimp lightly crusted and flash-fried with bits of bell pepper were served with an intense garlic-lime dipping sauce. The octopus ($12), sliced and tossed in a basil vinaigrette with slivered red onions, was exquisitely cooked – toothsome and silky, without a hint of the toughness you find when octopus is clumsily prepared. This is the octopus you need to order for that friend who thinks she doesn’t like it.

Next up: grilled salmon with a dark soy glaze and sautéed spinach ($16). According to my partner, who is a fish snob but not a word snob, the salmon “melts in your mouth.” I don’t know whether to credit the quality of the filet or the touch of the chef, but Matt was right: it was moist, tender all through, and suffused in flavor. The sauce was assertive, but the salmon stood its ground. Lastly, we ordered the whole grilled bronzino in a light clear lemon sauce (market price). Our server offered to fillet it for us at the table, to spare us the bones, but we declined and dug right in.

The subtle lemon enhanced the delicate taste of fresh (but not fishy) fish. With white rice and a side of bok choy ($3), we finished our meal all jacked up on protein and feeling totally satisfied. The cake selection (lemon, chocolate, and carrot) looked tempting, but we decided to save it for another day.

We were the only patrons on a Wednesday at six o’clock –we worried about the business, but we felt lucky to have enjoyed the full attention of the kitchen and staff. Grill Fish has been open less than a week; you’ll want to try it before the crowds start lining up. It’s a small place with a full bar featuring Vietnam’s specialty drinks, such as the delicious lemongrass martini ($9).

In addition to fish, mussels, and calamari, the menu offers lamb, chicken, and seasonal grilled vegetables. We’ll see if the Grill Fish Cafe becomes a destination for folks from all over town. For now, I’m psyched to know that true seafood experts are doing their thing just blocks from my house.

– Jen